非遗 · Living Heritage

南京云锦织造技艺

Craftsmanship of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade

南京云锦织造技艺以复杂大型织机、上下两人协作与“通经断纬”等方法组织蚕丝线、黄金线和孔雀羽线等材料，并连接材料准备、纹样设计、挑花结本、造机与织造。它不是所有南京织物或所有锦缎的统称。

Nanjing Yunjin brocade craftsmanship uses a complex large loom, coordinated work by two operators and methods including continuous warp with discontinuous weft to organize materials such as silk, gold thread and peacock-feather yarn. It connects material preparation, pattern design, pattern programming, loom construction and weaving, and is not a name for every textile or brocade made in Nanjing.

地区
江苏南京及相关织造传承群体Nanjing, Jiangsu, and associated weaving communities
时代
元明清皇家织造传统延续并转化至今A court-weaving tradition prominent from the Yuan through Qing periods and transformed into the present
阅读
11 分钟2 项来源

VERIFIED NOTES

可核查要点

  • 南京云锦织造技艺于 2009 年列入人类非物质文化遗产代表作名录；中国非遗数字博物馆把相关国家级项目记为“南京云锦木机妆花手工织造技艺”。名录名称、国家级项目名称与商品标签不能随意互换。
  • 官方资料说明其在复杂大型织机上由上下两人手工操作，并采用“通经断纬”等核心技术；协作、设备、材料和工序共同构成技艺，不能只凭华丽纹样或金色外观判断云锦身份。
  • 同一资料把体系概括为材料准备、纹样设计、挑花结本、造机、织造等百余道工序，并列举蚕丝线、黄金线和孔雀羽线等材料。具体作品是否使用某种材料，仍须查看作品级说明。

01

历史坐标

Historical context

南京云锦织造技艺以复杂大型织机、上下两人协作与“通经断纬”等方法组织蚕丝线、黄金线和孔雀羽线等材料，并连接材料准备、纹样设计、挑花结本、造机与织造。它不是所有南京织物或所有锦缎的统称。

Nanjing Yunjin brocade craftsmanship uses a complex large loom, coordinated work by two operators and methods including continuous warp with discontinuous weft to organize materials such as silk, gold thread and peacock-feather yarn. It connects material preparation, pattern design, pattern programming, loom construction and weaving, and is not a name for every textile or brocade made in Nanjing.

02

核心看点

What to notice

研究一件云锦可画“料—纹—本—机—人—纬—物”链：先核对丝线、金属线或其他材料，再找到纹样设计与挑花结本如何向织机传递信息，随后观察上下两位操作者怎样协同经纬、换色和妆花，最后记录成品用途与年代。历史皇家用途属于特定时期，不能把今天每件云锦都写成宫廷原物，也不能把机器织锦仅凭花纹归入同一手工流程。

Map a Yunjin object through material, pattern, pattern programme, loom, people, weft and finished textile. Verify silk, metallic or other threads, trace how pattern design and knot-based programming guide the loom, then observe how two operators coordinate warp, weft, colour and supplementary patterning. Record the finished object's use and date. Historical court use belongs to specific periods: a present textile is not automatically a palace object, and a machine-woven brocade does not enter the same hand process merely through a similar motif.

03

延续与学习

Continuity and learning

南京云锦今天通过传承人培养、研究机构、博物馆、生产性保护、展览与当代设计继续发展。学习记录要区分馆藏文物、手工织造样本、教学演示、当代设计、机器产品与旅游纪念品，并注明机构、制作者、材料和日期。纹样寓意须回到具体来源和使用场景；体验编织不能冒充完整技艺，复杂织机操作也应由专业人员指导。

Yunjin continues through bearer training, research institutes, museums, productive safeguarding, exhibitions and contemporary design. Records should distinguish collection objects, handwoven samples, demonstrations, current design, machine products and souvenirs, naming institution, maker, material and date. Motif meanings must return to a specific source and use. A small weaving exercise is not the full craft, and complex loom work requires professional guidance.

SOURCES

出处与延伸阅读

  1. 1. Craftsmanship of Nanjing Yunjin brocade

    UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage · 访问 2026-08-02

  2. 2. 南京云锦织造技艺

    中国非物质文化遗产网·中国非物质文化遗产数字博物馆 · 访问 2026-08-02

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